Saturday, September 8, 2012

We had one free afternoon while we were in Atlanta, so we took a peek at the map and considered the places we might visit. Centennial Olympic Park, just down the hill from our hotel, seemed like a good place to start. So we trekked down the hill, and were greeted by a beautiful and vibrant part of the downtown Atlanta area.

The park has a great story, too. Twenty years ago, the land where the it now sits was a run down eye sore, filled with abandoned warehouses and dilapidated storefronts. You would never know that, now! In addition to revitalizing the downtown area, Centennial Olympic Park is a great tourist attraction. The improvements bring an estimated 3 million people to the area.

We enjoyed a leisurely stroll around the 21-acre park, reading the displays commemorating the Olympics (like those listing all the gold medal winners), and checking out the park's three water features.

After spending some time relaxing under some trees and watching children and families enjoying the park, we decided to hike back up the hill and find some lunch. There are lots of great places to choose from in Atlanta! We went for a place called the Metro Cafe Diner, where we were pleasantly surprised by food with a Greek flair and several international food choices, along with some of the most decadent cakes I have ever seen, rising layer after layer in a display case taunting you from the hostess station.

The service was friendly, including not just our own server, but another waitress and the host. The atmosphere was fun -- sort of reminded me of a night club with a shiny banister leading up to the balcony where we ate. My Gyro was yummy, and Justin enjoyed the lasagna.

We left with happy tummies.

Sunday, July 22, 2012

Temple ruins
At the southeastern-most tip of Isla Mujeres there is one stood a Mayan Temple to the Goddess Ixchel - goddess of midwifery and medicine in the Maya culture and the guardian of childbirth. What is left now is little more than a pile of crumbling rocks (severely damaged by a hurricane in 1988), but the fantastic feminine energy of the spot remains.

My visit to the island would not have been complete without a trip to this spot. As a mother and a birth doula, this was a profound journey for me. 

Ixchel's temple is located at the very eastern-most point in Mexico, surrounded by rarely touched white sand beaches and the clearest water I have ever seen.

At the head of the trail to the temple is a tiny one room museum with historical information about the goddess and the site, along with a small gift shop, restaurant, and some merchants nestled into a small space near a magnificent statue of Ixchel.

The trek is well worth the energy!
The view from the ferry
A small group of ladies and I took advantage of some free time today to slip off to Isla Mujeres (Island of the Woman). It seemed fitting, as it was womanhood that brought us to Mexico in the first place. We took a bus from our hotel to the ferry terminal, then boarded a ferry for the island. It was 35 pesos each direction.

(Tip: The bus cost 8.5 pesos to get pretty much anywhere. Be prepared for a wild ride - they drive everywhere FAST, but it is cheap and easy and bus stops are plentiful.)

On the ferry there were people selling transportation options for on the island, and a man busking with a guitar. We rented a golf cart to drive around and got a recommendation for a great place to eat.

(Tip: Find a local and ask where THEY like to eat.)

The first thing I noticed when we set foot on the island was the slower pace. It was immediately clear we were no longer in the hustle and bustle of the city of Cancun.

Being serenaded on the ferry
There are very few cars on Isla Mujeres -- most people get around the five mile long island using golf carts or mopeds. People stroll the streets. Dining was casual and affordable, but seriously amazing. We stopped at an open air cafe near the ferry dock and were immediately in heaven surrounded by plates piled high with local goodness. Drinks were also plentiful and delicious, and a mariachi band entertained us at our table.

We picked up our golf cart and started out across the island. None of us had ever driven a golf cart before, but after a quick demo by the friendly staff, we were on our way. Driving it was fun! After a quick look at a guidebook, we set off toward the ruins of a temple on the far end of the island.

Amazing food. Amazing.
Isla Mujeres is only half a mile wide and five miles long, so getting lost isn't too much of an issue, but there is plenty of diversity and lots to see. We were soon disappointed we had only set aside half a day for exploration. Accommodations are available on the island -- I am excited to spend more time there one day.

(Tip: Check out this map of the island -- though I must admit, it makes the island seem a lot busier than it feels!)

Along the road we stopped to check out an art gallery filled with hand-crafted jewelry and beautiful paintings called the Kimberley Art and Gem Gallery. It was a really lovely little oasis and a special surprise find.

(Tip: There are several art galleries on the island with beautiful pieces to browse or purchase. If you have time to do some scuba diving, there is a seriously amazing underwater museum to check out.)

This guy was selling conch shells on the side of the road.
The gallery was not our only stop, either. In addition to a visit to a very special temple, a slight detour brought us face-to-face with a local man selling conch sells of all sizes and colors. Wow, the photo does not do it justice! We were all amazed and couldn't drive away without partaking of his wares.

Our shopping did not end there. On our way back to the ferry we had a great time exploring the open air shops selling everything from trinkets to jewelry to clothes. None of us walked away empty handed.

(Tip: As the end of the day approaches, ferry lines get long! Be sure to leave yourself enough time if you are heading back to the mainland. Check and double check that you are in the right line for the type of ferry ticket you have purchased.)

Our visit to the island was really fantastic -- well worth the effort! I definitely recommend checking it out.

Saturday, July 21, 2012

On our way back from Chichen Itza, we realized we were famished from a long day in the hot July sun, and asked our cab driver to stop for food. He brought us to Piste, a tiny village near the ruins, and stopped in front of an open-air cafe filled with Mexican families enjoying an evening meal.

In large part, that meal was the first time we felt as though we had been in Mexico. Far from the hotel zone, we ordered from laminated menu cards featuring photos of each dish, with prices that were pennies on the dollar compared to what we had been seeing in Cancun.


We were introduced to this beautiful drink called horchata, made from rice milk and cinnamon. Light and delicious, the sweet horchata sliced straight through the heat of the day. It was easy to imagine an afternoon spent on that patio, people watching and sipping away. Creamy and white, it came to our table it in a plastic pitcher with a stack of plastic cups, which we filled and refilled gleefully.

Dinner itself was a variety of tastes and textures that can only come from a hole-in-the-wall restaurant where the locals eat. We shared three dishes, including a lovely light soup, sopas, and delicious pork tacos. Everything was warm and flavorful, with just the right balance of spicy kick.

While we ate, we had the pleasure of looking at more beautiful ruins – a church across the street intrigued us so much we had to go take a look.

The stop was a beautiful cherry on top of our day, and we were so glad we had decided not to wait and eat at the hotel.
When I looked at my Cancun conference schedule, I saw two openings, and knew immediately I would have to find my way to Chichen Itza during one of them. It didn't matter if I was going alone! Luckily I was not the only one who felt that missing the Mayan ruins in 2012 was not an option when we were so close, and once our sessions wrapped up at midday, I was meeting our taxi driver with Joe Valley and Kimberly Garner.

A drawing of how Chichen Itza is said to have looked
upon "rediscovery."
We had booked the taxi through the lovely gentlemen at our hotel's concierge desk, so the fare was negotiated ahead of time, and all we had to do was sit back and enjoy the ride. And what a ride it was. Let's just say it was lively. There was no mistaking -- from the moment we set foot in that taxi, we were on an adventure.

Chichen Itza is about a two hour drive from the Cancun hotel zone, and most tours of the site are full day excursions. But we didn't have a full day, and we weren't about to let that deter us! Our timeline gave us just less than two hours at the site before it closed, and apparently our driver was in a hurry to get us there. (Ha!)
Vendors inside the gates of Chichen Itza

When we arrived to purchase our tickets, we were very glad we had brought someone along who spoke Spanish -- thank you SO much Kimmie! It made the entire situation so much more comfortable. We made the decision to hire a guide, knowing this was a once-in-a-lifetime experience, and he would tell us so much more than we would learn for ourselves. Kimmie negotiated with him, we paid for our admission (two different amounts at two different gates and you have to pay both, so don't be caught off guard by that), and the four of us were off.

The moment we stepped onto the grounds, we were greeted by rows of vendors with colorful wares -- beautiful table after table filled with trinkets, clothing, masks, art, bowls, musical instruments, and so much more. Most of them were families, complete with multiple generations, parents, grandparents and children working the stand. Being inside the hotel zone hadn't afforded us much of a look at this side of the culture, and part of me wanted to stop and look at each booth.


El Castillo
But time was growing short, and I knew they would be there on the way back, so we pressed on. A few short steps later we got our first view of the site -- El Castillo (The Kukulkan Pyramind) loomed in front of us, rising from the ground with the magnificence that has commanded its place on the list of the Wonders of the World.

Our first stop was the ball fields, and as we stepped into it, this amazing feeling came over us. It almost took my breath. For one, it was straight off the cover of one of my junior high social studies books. Secondly, you could just feel the history there. I could have sat there all day, quietly taking it all in and trying to process the centuries. Who knows, I could still be sitting there.

The Great Ballcourt of Chichen Itza
The Great Ballcourt of Chichen Itza is 225 feet wide and 545 feet long overall. It is totally open to the blue sky, and has a feeling of being just so immense. A whisper from end can be heard clearly at the other end of the court. Archaeologists engaged in the reconstruction noted that the sound transmission became more and more strong and clear as they proceeded. And the reason is a total secret, despite the best efforts of researchers throughout history. How amazing is that?

We all knew the stories of the gory things that happened in this area, but somehow, standing there in that court, you could feel in your soul the reason people would make that sacrifice. Words don't do the feeling justice, it is just this sense in your being that has to be experienced in person.

Tzompantli -- The Wall of Skulls
Next we saw Tzompantli -- The Wall of Skulls. The walls are carved with interesting skulls, and reliefs of subjects including a scene of human sacrifice, and skeleton warriors with arrows and shields.

Then our attention was turned to the best known construction of the site -- El Castillo. It is a steep-sided pyramid approximately 75 feet tall, built for astronomical purposes. It is also thought to have been used for agricultural rituals. During the vernal and autumnal equinoxes at mid-afternoon, sunlight bathes the pyramid's main stairway and forms the body of a serpent creeping downward to join the carving of a serpent's head at the bottom of the stairway.

The Observatory
From there the rest of the ruins were a beautiful blur, with walls and paths and buildings like the observatory and well serving as backdrops for photos and the guide filling us with more history and information than any of us could retain.

Closing time was announced by people with whistles, and just like that, the fun was over. The overall experience was nothing short of intense, and while it was difficult to see it end, we were so glad to have come! We made our way back past the vendors toward the exit, ushered by the park officials.

I want to note here that in a lot of the reviews I read, people were complaining that there were "too many" vendors. Wow, I could not agree more! The vendors added local color, gave a real sense of the culture, and they were just trying to feed their families, and I was honored to be able to help them where I could. They were very respectful (especially compared to other places I have been), and clearly the rules did not allow them to follow you, because they all kept to their own space. I really enjoyed having them there.

The gates were closing and we wanted time to browse the wares, so we shopped with the vendors outside the gates. We took all the time we pleased, and had a great time bartering for the items we chose. We were downright giddy when we returned to the taxi!

Tips? It's hot. And I mean HOT. Bring water and sunscreen, and wear a hat. Get a guide. It is well worth the cost. And while I'm sure the tour is great, don't let anyone tell you it is the ONLY option!


2012 or not, I would definitely call this one a must see. If the world ends in December, I suppose at least I got the opportunity to cross this one off my bucket list.

Wednesday, July 18, 2012

Nothing stood out about my trip to Cancun quite like the food.

The eats at the Casa Magna Marriott were the sort of thing the Travel Channel might flit down to highlight. Day after day we were presented with plates that pleased all the senses.

Who wouldn't fall in love with mouth-watering dish after mouth-watering dish, complete with absolute impeccable presentation.

Day after day, we enjoyed soups, salads, mains and desserts that were worthy of photography. Every single meal, someone had their camera out to snap a picture before digging in! One thing is for certain -- the photos really did not do any of it justice.

Early in the week with a small group to cater to, we developed a personal relationship with the people preparing our food, as it was delivered each day with such care and presentation.

During the larger group meetings, the chefs really outdid themselves with elaborate displays of sushi, meats and cheeses, chocolates, and so much more.

When we returned to our rooms at night, more treats awaited us. It was absolutely decadent. I would highly recommend every moment of the trip I had!

Thursday, July 12, 2012

Planning a trip to New Zealand, but not sure where to stay? Online resources abound. Check these sites out for ideas.

Rent a House

Book-a-bach was recommended to us by family, and we used it to find lodging for most of our most recent trip. We scheduled houses for 2-6 nights and were overall very pleased with the experience.

We stayed at Somer_Villa at Stanmore Bay to book end to our trip (for a few days upon arrival and then a few days at the end of our time in New Zealand). In addition to being within walking distance of Gran and Grandad's house, it was a lovely, cozy little place with great hosts.

Bed and Breakfast

Speaking of hosts, New Zealand's hospitality is second to none. If you want to experience that up close and personal, consider checking out one of the country's many bed and breakfast locations. We stayed at a wonderful South Island bed and breakfast a few years ago. It was a great experience - and so relaxing. We strolled through their vineyard, met the animals, visited with the family, and were welcomed with open arms! The New Zealand Bed and Breakfast Book is a great place to start if you are looking for a B&B experience of your own. 

Hotels and Motels

Hotels.com is my favorite way to book hotels in the U.S., and they have a New Zealand version of the site available, too. Check it out here.

100% Pure New Zealand is a great website for all things Kiwi, including places to stay (also check it out for things to do and see). You will find an excellent selection of hotel and motel rooms on the site.

Wednesday, July 11, 2012

After we rinsed the sand off at Hot Water Beach, we moved along, picking up the 309 Road, a windy, partially dirt road that took us from the east side of the peninsula to the west side. Along the way we stopped at the kauri forest, and hiked along a trail (which said it was 10 minutes long) to a grove of super old kauri trees. We lost Cameron for a while, but all in all it was a fun hike.

Not far along the road from there was Coromandel, where we had rented an eclectic and interesting house for the night. We were greeted by a couple of Kiwi kids, very excited to meet our brood of American children.

It was Ella's turn at dinner, so she and Garth made spaghetti bolognaise and a pie. After dinner there were a few games on the pool table, and then a few more, and we all headed off to bed, exhausted.


**

Our day started with a beautiful view from the Coromandel House -- fog over the valley and the town. It was quiet and peaceful, and we could have sat and looked for hours.

But there were places to go and things to see, and we were almost back to "home"! So after everyone was up and through the shower, we went into the little gold mining village of Coromandel to see if we could check out a mine. That didn't work out, but we got a good look at town before we headed on.

From Coromandel we followed the coast, driving along the Firth of Thames. It was very beautiful all the way along (it reminded me of the Washington coast where I grew up). We stopped in Thames to putter away a couple of hours in the shops and have lunch. We ended up in a Chinese buffet after looking through a couple of book shops and a few others spots, including a playground at the edge of town.

Tuesday, July 10, 2012

We were on the road at about 10, and stopped for lunch in the cute little burg of Whangamata. We got goodies from a little bakery and took them down to the gorgeous beach. After lunch and some time in the sand (Cameron tried his hand at flying his kite and took a dip in the surf), we were on the road again.

Up the road a bit we came to Hot Water Beach, where we all had a great time. We hired a couple of spades from the cafe and walked down the beach to a spot where we dug a hole and found the boiling hot thermal heated water beneath. As the tide poured cold water into the holes the family had dug, warm pools were created. It was a a really very interesting phenomenon!

We snapped a lot of photos to remember the day...