Wyoming: Bighorn Canyon National Recreation Area

There’s nothing quite like a remarkable feat of nature to bring out the “oohs” and “aahs” from the family, and Bighorn Canyon National Recreation Area, straddling the border of Wyoming and Montana, is fantastically remarkable.

Considering the other well-known parks in the area (yes, Yellowstone, I’m looking at you), Bighorn is often spoken of as a treasure waiting to be discovered. Covering more than 120,000 acres, the park features a 55 mile long canyon. It is a breathtaking marvel, more than 1,000 feet deep at Devil’s Overlook, where we stopped to stretch our legs and explore a bit of history in the strata.

Researchers have found Upper Jurassic Period fossils, fossil tracks, and bones in the park, which piqued the imagination of our dinosaur lovers. Among the discoveries was the remains of Pleistocene animals in debris piles at cave entrances.

There are living animals in the park, too, of course. Wildlife in Bighorn Canyon National Recreation Area includes bighorn sheep, wild horses, coyotes, mule deer, snakes, small mammals, mountain lions, bears, and more than 200 bird species. According to the park’s website, the 39,000-acre Pryor Mountain Wild Horse Range, about one-fifth of which lies within Bighorn Canyon National Park, provides habitat for sheep and for approximately 160 wild horses managed by the Bureau of Land Management.

In addition to wildlife, the park features a wide variety of recreational opportunities. There are picturesque hikes, and water activities abound. Camping is available within the park, along with fishing, boating, and more to explore. It’s also a great place to stretch your legs and take in some beauty on your way between the Black Hills and Yellowstone.

By the way, if you’re thinking the children seem to have shrunk a little, you’re right – the photos shared here are a throwback from our 2010 summer vacation.

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Montana: Have a Dinosaur Adventure in Makoshika State Park in Glendive

The largest state park in Montana, Makoshika sits on 11,538 acres located just east of Glendive, Montana, in the eastern part of the state on Interstate 94. Follow the signs through Glendive to get there – it is well marked, but does involve a couple of turns in residential areas.

Pronounced Mah-koh’-shi-kah, the park draws its name from a Lakota phrase meaning “land of bad spirits” or “badlands.” The rock formations of this beautiful landscape are well worth the stop.

Visit in summer for Shakespeare in the Park, a summer youth program, or Buzzard Day. Or follow our lead, and go when the park is quiet, to enjoy the real untouched feel of the Montana wilderness. Pack a picnic, or head back into town for reasonably priced eats.

This part of the country is well-known for dinosaur discoveries, and this spot is a great one to learn more about that. Ten species have been found here, and one highlight of the displays in the visitor center is that all of the fossils on display were actually found right there in the park. What a terrific way to spur the imagination! Check out the visitor center, and then head off to make your own discoveries. Imagine yourself as an archaeologist, finding the bones of Tyrannosaurus Rex and Triceratops.

As with all state and national parks, it is important to remind children of the adage: “Take only pictures and leave only footprints.” No souvenirs for the road, and the park does ask that you leave your metal detector at home.

There are several options for enjoying Makoshika, including a six-mile loop of scenic roads, dotted with great spots to pull off and take breathtaking photos. Hiking trails abound, so be sure to bring along sturdy shoes and a bottle of water. In addition, there is camping, and adisc golf course, which is how we chose to spend our afternoon.

Looking for wildlife? Makoshika will not disappoint. Depending on the season, you might find sage lizards, bull snakes, rattle snakes, coyotes, bobcats, muledeer, and turkey vultures.

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Texas: Kemah Boardwalk – A Relaxing Getaway

We had an evening free during a quick business trip to Houston, and decided to check out the Kemah Boardwalk. Twenty miles from downtown Houston, the boardwalk is loaded with charm – a refreshing getaway from the city that somehow manages to be busy and activity-filled and simultaneously immensely relaxing.

If you love a good roller coaster like I do, check out the Boardwalk Bullet, a good old fashioned wooden coaster on the gulf. It may have only opened in 2007, but it is reminiscent of the seaside classics dating back 100 years. The slice of Americana boasts 3,300 feet of track, crossing over its own tracks a record-breaking 42 times, and travels at more than 50 mph. There are plenty of other thrills to be had on the boardwalk, as well. Tickets are available individually or as a package.

Thrills are not the only thing offered at this little escape on the Gulf Coast. The sea air blowing through our hair was just the thing after a long day of meetings and work. We enjoyed an open-air dinner on the patio at Bubba Gump Shrimp Co., then took a relaxing stroll along the boardwalk, tossing a handful of food to the catfish and exploring the shops.

The boardwalk also features an aquarium and a beautiful little inn. Check out their website to learn more.

We found ourselves at the boardwalk on Tribute Band Tuesday, which was a fun surprise. The evening featured “Walk This Way” and “Guns4Roses.”

It was a treat to unwind with a drink (check out the little booths around the square for the alcoholic and non-alcoholic sort alike – we partook in a yard long frozen concoction) and people watch to the tunes of these great bands.
Children splashed and danced on the splash pad, couples moved to the music, the smell of funnel cakes hanging in the air. There’s something special about summer nights on the water, and Kemah Boardwalk was a great place to spend this one.

The drive back to Houston was painless, too, which was an important feature. (They sure do have a lot of toll booths here, though! Have small cash ready to go to save time.)

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CARES helps children fly safely

Flying with a little one brings with it concerns over safety that parents struggle to find easy answers for. Bria is small for her age — about 30 pounds at age four — and we really feel most comfortable if she is buckled into a car seat, especially for take-off and landing.

But if you’ve ever tried lugging a car seat through the airport (especially on an international trip), you know it is far from convenient. Even with the wheeled cart to turn it into a semi-stroller, there’s nothing simple about traveling with a convertible seat in tow. I am certain I have said at least once that I would NEVER do it again!

Enter the CARES Airplane Safety Harness – an excellent answer for a frustrating dilemma. Made for kids 22-45 pounds and up to 40 inches tall, it helps kids fly safe in an FAA-approved way.

The CARES weigh less than one pound, and fits easily in any purse, diaper bag, or carry on – that’s a stark comparison to the Britax car seat we used to lug along! Now we check the car seat (free on most airlines), and don’t have to deal with it until we reach our destination.

Installation is simple, taking just a few short steps. It even comes with a card to share with the flight attendant or anyone else who might be wondering about the seat (we always get asked). Additional documentation is also available for download on the FAA website.

We have found that if there are any indentations in the seat to contain the tray table, the strap doesn’t work underneath it. Unfortunately this means the strap has to go over the top, effectively rendering the tray table of the person behind you useless. For this reason, if we will need seats in more than one row, we usually book two rows in front of each other, rather than next to each other, so we don’t have to inconvenience other travelers. Of course, that doesn’t always work, so be prepared to smile big, apologize lots, and remove it promptly outside of take-off and landing times.
Traveling with kids can be hairy — the CARES system relieves some stress, which means I’m all about it!

UPDATE: Not all airplanes are created equal! We have found that there are plane seats the CARES does not seem to be compatible with. When the seat front is concave, it makes the strap the shoulder pieces hang off sit out away from the seat, pushing her head forward. Unfortunately that made the harness very difficult to use on this particular plane.

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North Dakota: Theodore Roosevelt National Park’s North Unit

Sharp, unforgiving badlands. Rolling rivers. Oceans of prairie. Breathtaking wildlife. There’s something genuinely special about Theodore Roosevelt National Park in western North Dakota.

The park is separated into three units – the North Unit, just south of Watford City, is nearest our home, so we popped down to do the Junior Ranger program and have a picnic. (The other units are the South Unit, with an entrance near Medora, and the Elkhorn Ranch Unit – Roosevelt’s home base.)

A favorite area of the 26th president, the rugged landscapes of this park is largely untouched more than 125 years after he spent time here. If you go seeking bison, you will most certainly not be disappointed.

Bria loves to do Junior Ranger programs each time she visits a national park, and this one is a great example. This booklet is aimed at ages 6-12, but with a little reading help, it’s a great fit for preschoolers. Bria loves that the Theodore Roosevelt Junior Ranger includes a ranger program and hiking a trail. And of course there’s a badge!

Stop by the ranger station near the entrance to get all of the information before heading in to the park. The program is free, but they also have fun little Junior Ranger kits available for purchase.

The views in this park are spectacular. Be sure to plan enough time to just sit and drink it in when visiting.

Other favorite stops are the Prairie Dog Town (there are literally hundreds, and you may find that they are inches away at times) and the 14-mile scenic drive.
For longer stays, camping is also available. Check out the park’s website for details.

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Costa Rica: Logistics and the Unexpected – 7 Travel Lessons

1. Laundry was harder to come by than we expected. All of the places we stayed had the option of sending it out with a service that charged by the piece. As every family knows, laundry multiplies when left alone, so this is no small endeavor. We planned to do laundry twice, but ended up doing it once, at a cost of $76.

2. My cell phone was a bit insistent that I unplug this trip, even though I was expecting to be reachable by text. Verizon told me I would have service and quoted me rates, but apparently my phone had different plans. We switched data off before we took off in Houston, and it was basically a brick with the ability to (sort of) connect to Wi-Fi once I turned it on in San Jose. I was appreciative of the Verizon text app, which did work when I was able to connect to Wi-Fi. Next time I think we will pick up a SIM card if we need to be reachable.

3. Google Translate is amazing – I wouldn’t want to be in the phrase book business these days. Be sure to “pin” the languages you need and complete the download at home so it is accessible offline.

4. Have your photocopies of passports on hand while traveling – police may want to check them (especially when near borders with Nicaragua and Panama), and you will need them for hotel check-ins. You might want to have your arrival hotel make a copy of the visa page, as well, since it shows your legal entry to the country. You will only need the actual passport at the bank or to secure equipment/car rentals, so store them in the hotel safe when not in use.

5. Wi-Fi is easy to come by, but not always in the places you expect. If it matters that you are connected, be sure to check the internet status when booking a hotel. We found most restaurants had a password protected network – just ask!

6. The country has two currencies – Colones and U.S. dollars – and both are accepted widely. We found it convenient to carry some of each. Be sure to have small bills, though. I wouldn’t bother with anything larger than a $20. Check out current exchange rates here.

7. Toilet paper. In the trash can. Seriously? There’s a request that is tough to get used to.

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Montana: Family Fun at Billings Brew & BBQ

We checked out the Billings Brews & BBQ festival at the Metra today – what a great family event. Yes, I said family event. There were families hanging out on the grass enjoying delicious treats and live music, plus there was a great variety of local beers. Learn more about the annual event here.

Held annually, the festival brings together brewers from all over the region to share their brews. It is a great place to roll out something new, but there is also lots of old standbys and favorites to enjoy.

Attendees purchase a glass (come early – they ran out this year!) and ticket package, and then exchange one ticket for each drink sample. It isn’t just about beer, either. Brewers brought along meads and handcrafted sodas, too. We tried several different versions of a Scottish ale from brewers around the state, and really enjoyed comparing the complexities of each. Is that mint I sense? What a surprise!

It wouldn’t be a festival without a variety of great local food, so follow your nose over the check out some juicy, slow-cooked barbecue, or opt for other choices from Subway to hot dogs to funnel cakes.

Local music and some great vendors rounded out the fun next to the lake on the Metra grounds.

To put this fun event on your calendar for next year, check out the Metra Calendar of Events. And don’t forget to drink responsibly!

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Costa Rica: Our Little Swimmer’s Big Life Lesson

It is one of the most amazing things to witness as a parent. It is that moment when something just “clicks” for your child.

We have exposed Bria to water since she was a small baby. She did a Water Babies program at six months old, and has spent time in pools every chance she gets. About a year ago we got her a swim float (similar to a life jacket), which allowed her a level of independence. She could kick around the pool on her own, but didn’t go far.

Things were status quo on this trip, and Bria was having a great time in the water, with and without her float. Then, one day at Los Lagos, she was playing in the pool when three little girls came over to play. One tried to pick her up, which she usually doesn’t like, but she smiled and went off to splash around with them (despite the fact they didn’t speak a bit of English).

After a few minutes, their mother said it was time to go, and Bria came over to us, where we were lounging in the pool.

“Watch this!” she announced, and put her face under the water.

We exclaimed – wow! It was so new for her to be willing to do that. And totally on her own? We told her how proud we were of her new skill.

“My friend taught me,” she said.

From that moment, it was as if a switch had been flipped. She was a swimmer! Over the remaining days in Los Lagos, she became more and more confident. She was swimming underwater more and more, and her form was constantly improving. Soon she was kicking her legs behind her and moving across the pool.

“Look, I’m doing the back stroke!” she announced, on the day we left.

Our next stop was RIU Guanacaste, and by the time she hit their pool, she was full on swimmer.

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Costa Rica: Mom and Dad Need a Massage

Let’s face it – vacation can be exhausting. With all of the hiking came a few aches and pains, and every once in a while, Mom and Dad need a break.

We decided Los Lagos was just one of those times (especially after the bike riding adventure), so we picked up a spa brochure. While everything sounded lovely and relaxing, we were on the fence about whether or not to pay the prices. So we decided to keep an eye out as we went into town for dinner.

Several options were available in La Fortuna, but we settled on one west of the Catholic church, where a pair of sweet ladies shared their brochure. Their packages were enticing, so we made plans to have dinner, then put the kids in a taxi and head over for some grownup time.

We chose the Natural Balance package, which included a natural massage, exfoliation, and reflexology for $50. They showed us to a simple open air room, with sheets fluttering gently in the breeze and soft music. Within moments, we could have been anywhere. It was an excellent experience, incredibly relaxing, and the ladies were well-skilled – all for about 1/3 the price of the resort. Check your options!

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Costa Rica: Horseback ride to La Fortuna Waterfall

The famous La Fortuna waterfall is breathtaking and well worth the effort to get to it – but after a solid few days of strenuous activity, this expedition was a bit too much for our little family.

Pick up was set for early – we received a note at our hotel the night before moving it back to 7:30 am. We arrived at the stables and signed the usual waivers, then got a little instruction on what was in front of us from an English-speaking guide, before we set off with our own guide, who spoke less English than we speak Spanish. Oops! As we realized his only words were “OK” and “right” (as in turn your horse right, not left), we once again found ourselves wishing we had learned more of the local language.

The horses were reasonably calm and laid back trail hoses, though we quickly found a few personalities in the group! Justin’s horse did not like it when others passed her, and got a little competitive if she wasn’t in front, while my horse was a bit on the stubborn side and definitely preferred things her own way.

The ride up was about 20 minutes long, mostly along a gravel road. At one point we stopped and left the horses in a small meadow, then walked up the road a bit to a building that served as their base camp. It had men’s and women’s bathrooms and changing rooms, and a platform looked out over the first of a pair of beautiful waterfalls. From there, steps descended into the bush toward the base of the La Fortuna waterfall and a swimming hole.

Donning their swimsuits and carrying Bria on their shoulders, most of the family bravely set off onto the trail, the promise of a cool swim baiting them on. The path was rough and steep, and when they finally reached the observation deck where La Fortuna Waterfall came into view, they realized they may be in over their heads, and decided to turn back.

While they hiked, I hung out at the base camp. No sooner were they out of sight than the next group came up the hill – set to zip line out over the waterfall. What an amazing view that must have been!

The scenery was nothing short of incredible, and I really enjoyed a few minutes of peace and quiet once the second group set off on their own adventure (in the opposite direction the family had trekked).

Soon I heard the hoots and hollers of my brood hiking back up the hill. Sweaty and exhausted, they appeared at the top of the stairs and collapsed. They had gotten down the trail far enough to see the beauty of the waterfall, but had decided it was just too far to drag little feet in order to take a swim. (Some of them were pretty sure the hike was going to kill them, it turns out, and our 13-year-old thought it was the worst day ever.)

Once everyone was dressed and rested, we made our way back down to our horses and mounted up again. The ride back took us off the road along some side trails, which led us up a hill and found us outside a little village of thatched huts.

Our guide quietly instructed us on a greeting, and we were met at the entrance to one of the huts by a young woman in indigenous clothing. The village was representative of the Maleku people, and our host, along with a second woman, gave us a brief presentation on their culture. We were pleased at the unexpected opportunity to learn about the indigenous people of this area. They shared a drink of fermented pineapple, and showed us several symbols of their people, then offered us the opportunity to browse a large collection of crafts made by local artisans. There were masks, instruments, wall hangings, and many other items in a variety of bright colors.

Just as we were gathering our packages and heading back to the horses, we heard the zip line party arriving. Their course ended nearby, and they were headed to the village next.

The horses knew they were on the home stretch, and soon they were trotting along toward the barn. Everyone was tired and happy and filled with new knowledge. It was a great day, thanks to a family that looked on the positive side and enjoyed time together, but I’m not sure I would recommend the trek to anyone headed to the Arenal region.

As Justin put it, “It was a bit of false advertising. It was not a horse trek to a waterfall, but a horse ride up a hill, then a long ass mountain climb to the waterfall.” The ride was all along a road, not through the forest or bush.

Of course, that was just expectation. When we saw “Horseback Riding to La Fortuna Waterfall,” we didn’t expect what we got – if you decide to make this trip, be sure to do so with your eyes wide open. We never made it to the waterfall, only to the viewing platform, which was a LONG way with a herd of increasingly discouraged children in tow. We did in fact go horseback riding, and the indigenous village was a delightful surprise, but for him, not enough to save the excursion, which he called “the only disappointment on the whole vacation.”

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Costa Rica: The community of La Fortuna

While visiting the Arenal (aw-ray-nawl) region, we fell in love with the little community of La Fortuna.

La Fortuna means “the fortunate,” and it is a well-earned name. There are a few versions to the story of how the name came about, but my favorite goes like this: When the nearby volcano erupted in 1968, death and destruction was the result to the west. Two villages were completely destroyed. But the little village to the east, El Borio, was completely untouched. A new name was in order, and La Fortuna was born.

By day, La Fortuna is a tidy, quiet town. As evening breaks, families come out and fill the beautifully manicured central park. Children ride bikes or kick a ball, cooling off in the fountain. Adults gather on benches to visit and enjoy the evening air. Then the music turns up, and the town comes alive. Street performers juggle and hula-hoop, not a collection hat to be seen. Live reggae music pours from a local bar. Everywhere you look, there is color in this little community of about 8,000.

Hotels and resorts line the main road, and the variety of restaurants is excellent for such a small area. We enjoyed evening meals at three local restaurants, each at the recommendation of a friendly cab driver. (A ride into town from Los Lagos was just under 5,000 colones)

We stopped into one of several galleries around the park and enjoyed a history lesson as we picked up a few pieces to bring home with us. There were also several souvenir shops, offering a little something for everyone.

Everywhere we went, the people were kind and friendly. When we walked away after checking out the handiwork of a woman on the street, we couldn’t help but compare to the high pressure sales tactics of the Straw Market in Nassau, as the comparison was stark.

What we loved most, though, is the thing that is hardest to explain. The vibe there was really genuine, positive and friendly.

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Costa Rica: It Rained

Our last night at Samasati Nature Retreat, it rained. It started once we were all safely tucked inside the shelter of the Tempest Pearl House, and continued through the night.

We retreated to our beds, and it rained.

Thunder filled the air from time to time, and it rained.

The little one sought the safety of Mom and Dad’s bed, and it rained.

Morning came slower than it had other days, no howls and shrieks of primates, no bright sunshine filtering through the windows. Just the sound of water pelting the tin roof, and the smell of fresh water in the forest.

And it rained.

In the very early morning hours, I move to the rocking chair on the upper deck of the house. I love that deck, with its simple bamboo rails and endless view, jungle giving way to beach, succumbing to ocean. This morning I see only a few rows of trees, then a thick, misty fog that reminds me of movies about gorillas.

The rain falling on leaves catches my attention, takes on a meditative quality as I sit. I watch as each drop seems to fall individually, not a shower of rain, but a single, isolated drop, shaking a single, isolated leaf. For several minutes, the storm is reduced to this one space, the impact on this one leaf.

I am reminded of a story our guide told us when we were hiking through Cahuita National Park, of how the ants have evolved organs that warn them of changes in barometric pressure so they can get the colony inside before the rain hits. Even though they can carry up to fifty times their own weight, the drops of water are too heavy for them, he shared.

Watching this leaf, thinking of the way the ants marched in long rows carrying a small, carefully torn piece of leaf each, the magnitude of the rain seems to different, so immense.

I watch the drops a few moments longer, then go downstairs to wake Ella. We lean over the railing of the lower deck, pointing out animals to each other – a gecko with a bright orange head, tiny red frogs, a green lizard that blends into a green leaf, a black bird, a toucan – and just enjoying each other’s company.

Then she donned a green rain jacket and borrowed an umbrella to head down to a 6:30 am yoga class, and once again I was alone.

And it rained.

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Costa Rica: Sometimes Plan B Means Taking A Leap

After a long day of snorkeling, bike riding, and exploring, Cameron wanted to ride a motorcycle, so while Justin and I relaxed at Johnny’s Place, he went off to find a place that rented them. He asked a few people on the street and was directed to two places – the first was closed, and the second he couldn’t find. So as the sun went down, he returned, and he and Justin made a pact. While the girls relaxed and explored Samasati the following day, the guys would venture into town to find a place to rent motorcycles.

Once breakfast was in the books, they grabbed a little cash and a credit card, and took the shuttle into town to find some fun. What they found was they were sorely unprepared.

The only place in town that rented motorcycles was not open, but they did manage to find scooters for rent. At $25 for the first two hours, the price was reasonable, but the place required a $300 cash deposit and did not accept credit cards. Disappointing, since they hadn’t come prepared for that, and getting back to the hotel safe for more cash wasn’t an option.

They were reminded of an important rule of travel – do your recon before you commit a day to an activity – or be prepared to roll with it and change plans on the fly!

Plan B was reading a book on the beach and getting a ridiculous sunburn because, again, they were unprepared. No sunblock to be had.

Frustrated and a little defeated (not to mention sore), they got a cab back to Samasati and managed to find some redemption for the day.

Finding the house empty, they decided to take a short hike. The map showed one of the hiking trails would lead them to a waterfall, so they went to check it out. Armed with walking sticks (thanks to the manager, Scott), they set out to enjoy the local beauty.

At the end of a thirty minute hike, they came to a waterfall spilling into a swimming hole. After climbing down to check out the pool, they took a few jumps into the water below, cooling their sticky, sunburned bodies. Smiling from ear to ear, they returned to the house to show the family video of their adventure.

Even if it wasn’t the adventure they had set out on that morning.

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Costa Rica: A Visit to Puerto Viejo on the Caribbean Coast

Puerto Viejo de Talamanca (just Puerto Viejo to locals) is a funky little town, nestled into south of the Caribbean coast of Costa Rica, about 30 km from the border with Panama.

The community has a real international flavor, with Jamaicans, Australians, Italians, and more adding their spice to the local culture. The main road is lined with small boutique hotels, shops, cafes, and assorted vendors aimed at catching the eye of the visiting tourist.

While sunrise was at about 4:30 am while we were there, the town is really just starting to rub the sleep from its eyes around ten.

Tourists on rented bicycles and locals of all ages add to the symphony on the narrow main road, which can be a little unsettling at first. Motorists give a friendly honk as they pass a group of teenagers on all manner of pedaling contraptions, and cars, trucks, vans, and buses play a game of leap frog as they speed down highways and back roads alike.

Soon you notice no one seems to mind the chaos, and you settle in, too, just counting the woman hitchhiking with her two young sons as added flavor, and the near-constant close calls as the way of the road. There is a strong hippy contingent (calling it a counter-culture is a bit like continuing to call 90s music “alternative”), and yes, that is probably marijuana you smell.

We had four days to explore this little off the beaten path corner of the Caribbean coast, taking advantage of the shuttle from our home base at the Samasati Nature Retreat and taxis to travel back and forth. Taxis here are not the yellow cab you might expect – instead, you’ll see people who happen to have a car and are hanging out on the side of the road, willing to negotiate a price to give you a ride. We found the fare back to Samasati to be consistently about $10.

There are a variety of beaches in the area – do your research ahead of time or plan on a lot of walking (or bike riding). Some are good for surfing and don’t allow swimmers, others are good spots to set up the beach toys and spend an afternoon splashing around.

On our second trek into town we decided to try one of the pedal carts available with the bicycle rentals. Two bench seats, four sets of pedals, and solid steel covered by a striped canopy, not sure if it was entertaining or suicidal. The boys got in front and the girls in back, and it was soon apparent it would be a two-person job, as I could barely stretch to touch the pedals, let alone turn them, and Ella is at least five inches shorter than I am. We set out down the road, three princesses with their chauffeurs working hard to propel them forward, and had quite the laugh at the spectacle we were creating.

It was difficult, heavy work, and there may have been a time or two they had to jump off and push, but the $28 rental fee was well worth the fun stories that came out of the afternoon. Plus we got a whole new perspective on the community as we cruised along to see the town and beaches.

Once the contraption was returned and Justin and Cameron had recovered from their near-death experience (perhaps a bit dramatic?), we walked down to the water and found a great little spot to cool off and get a drink at Johnny’s Place. 

It was the perfect location to watch the sunset and get some food, and a great vantage point for watching the community transition from quiet days to active nights. There is something very raw about this area. The beaches are no exception, with a very wide open, unprotected feel. Awesome if you are surfing, but not the most ideal beach to visit with little ones.

It is easily accessible, which has positives and negatives. Farther down the road at Cahuita there are rules about how far back from the beach development can be, but here you will find that the road follows the beach closely. At most places there is a row or two of trees and then beach directly next to the street.

This part of Costa Rica is less developed than many other areas. They didn’t get electricity until 1989, and air conditioning is not commonplace.

While we did our research and knew this ahead of time, be aware that Puerto Viejo is not the place to visit if you are looking for amenities on your trip. You will find interesting people and a laid back atmosphere, but you won’t find large grocery stores, and the restaurant options are all small and local. While that works for us, the overall was not quite our ideal.

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Costa Rica: Cahuita Snorkel and National Park Hike

Picturesque and sleepy, the town of Cahuita was a pretty little community 17 km north of Puerto Viejo. We arrived early in the morning to see residents in matching shirts worked together to clean the streets in the wake of a World Cup game the night before, and drove through the burg to a shed at the edge of a long row of boats wedged into the trees.

There we were joined by our boat captain and fitted with fins, then walked a few hundred feet to our boat. Exploradores Outdoors offered great equipment in a good variety of sizes.

TIP: Little ones are more than welcome, but bring along your own fins and snorkel if they will require them. Bria was happy to join the swim without, but we did bring our own life jacket for her.

Cahuita National Park is a gorgeous little piece of paradise – a strip of 1,067 hectares that has been set aside to be protected space for the diverse plants, birds, fish, and animals of land and sea. More than 2,600 acres of national park land located on the south Caribbean Coast in the Limon Province of Costa Rica, Cahuita National Park is an amazing oasis.

We were blessed with a knowledgeable local guide who shared plentiful information about the conservation efforts, as well as a trainee guide who was well versed in the biology aspects of the park. It was a combination that left us filled with all kinds of great information.

More than 35 species of coral have been identified on the reef, along with 123 species of fish, and a variety of mollusks, crustaceans, and others. The park, which is three times the size of New York’s Central Park, also serves as a nesting ground for sea turtles.

The water was breathtaking. As we sped along over the waves, Ella (13) smiled and said, “I would be satisfied with just this.” It’s not every day you illicit that reaction from a teenager, but there was much more in store.

Our captain came to a spot he knew well and tied the boat up – now it was time to explore. The place he had chosen was near the reef and about six feet deep, great for seeing a wide range of coral and fish.

We were pleased to find that our guides catered well to the variety of experience levels in our party. Every member of our group was able to have a great time at their own comfort. We all got in the water and got up close and person to the world under the surface.

Bria loved riding around on our backs as we snorkeled, and she even checked out a few fish and corals for herself.

Once everyone was happy and tired, we cruised across the bay a bit to another spot, where those who still had the energy for another swim jumped in to check out a new area. The tranquility of the beautiful, calm water and a little forgiving cloud cover made it a great day to sit and enjoy the boat.

Next we rode to the end of the point, where our guide laid out a carefully prepared delicious snack of local goodies, including a skillfully sliced pineapple, peanuts, cookies, and ice cold water.

While he prepared the snacks, we changed into dry clothes (find a tree to duck behind) and explored the beach. I have never seen so many hermit crabs in one place! Bria wasn’t so sure about them, to be certain, but it was a pretty amazing sight to have all of those shells crawling around. The parade was quite the display of diversity in all sizes and colors.

After everyone had enjoyed their fill of snacks, we tucked our things into the boat, gave everyone a good dousing with bug spray, and set out on a hike through the jungle, manned with water and cameras.

TIP: The trek back to Cahuita is about 3 km, so you want to plan for that with comfortable walking shoes and, if needed, a carrier for your little one.

We walked along at a comfortable pace, enjoying the keen eye for wildlife of our guides. Thanks to their skill, we saw far more than we ever would have spotted on our own. A troop of white-faced monkeys was up close and personal over our heads early in the trek, which was great for keeping the children’s interest piqued. Several varieties of ants call the park their home – some incredibly large. We saw so many varieties, it was like our own viewing of the movie ANTZ right at our feet.

Along the trail we saw a handful of lizards, an incredibly interesting spider, and an amazingly vivid yellow viper coiled nearby. We also saw howler monkeys, though they are not nearly as interested in checking people out as the white-faced monkeys were. A sloth sat high in a tree, and butterflies floated around us peacefully. You couldn’t ask for a better opportunity to check out the beauty of Costa Rica than this tour provided.

Worn out and filled with interesting new facts and a ire for conservation, we emerged from the woods at the Cahuita Ranger Station. There were showers to rinse of the beach sand, toilets, and two vendors offering local treats.

Our guide paid our park entrance fee (included in the tour, but $7 if you go to check it out on your own), and we walked a short distance to meet our driver. We were all very pleased with the experience, and would definitely recommend Exploradores Outdoors.

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Costa Rica: A Rustic Getaway at Samasati Nature Resort

It was the beginning of our two weeks in Costa Rica, and what we really needed was to set the scene. We needed to unplug, shed the constant activity and communication of our everyday lives, and dive in. We couldn’t have chosen a more perfect place to do just that.

Set on 270 acres atop a hill between in the Limon province, Samasati Nature Resort is a beautiful lodging space set back from the bustling streets of nearby communities.

Our Samasati adventure started with our sweet shuttle driver, Rudy, dropping us off at the small house that serves as a lobby. Our bags were loaded into the back of a four-wheel-drive pickup, we piled into the front and backseats, and we set off up a steep and bumpy hill to the lodge. If you’ve read reviews and are wondering if you actually do need four-wheel-drive, take our word for it. It’s not an option. If you bring a standard car here, it will sit at the bottom of the hill!

Speaking of reviews, we did our homework and knew exactly what we were getting into – it seems some reviewers found themselves caught by surprise by the remote location and basic surroundings. What a good reminder to “check into” a place before you check into a place.



Check in was smooth and simple, and then our driver brought us even farther up the hill to our home for the next few days – the Tempus Pearl House.

Rustic luxury may sound like an oxymoron, but the moment you step into this space, you will understand fully. Surrounded by gorgeous, lush jungle filled with beautiful animals in their native habitat, this house has an amazing ocean view to boot. Sitting high atop a tree directly off the expansive deck was our welcoming committee – a sloth – which was amazing, because Bria was really looking forward to seeing one!

The entire second floor of Tempus Pearl House is a relaxing master suite, with a king size platform bed in the center, a beautifully crafted marble bathroom, a walk in closet, and French doors leading to the perfect upper deck. Settling into one of the rocking chairs there, you can’t help exhaling, long and deep, to make space in your soul for serenity.

Downstairs, there is a second bedroom, a well-appointed but simple kitchen, and a living space. On the expansive patio was the biggest draw of the house for the children, a hammock with a great view. That hammock could tell the story of our stay perfectly. It was a place for lounging, reading, cuddling, playing, sightseeing, sleeping…perfection.

“I loved that place, it was great!” Bria said once we were home. “My favorite part was the hammock, and the towels folded into animals.”

Yes, there were animals, just one of the extra touches from the staff. Our stay featured impeccable service, thanks to the manager, Scott, and his attentive crew. We never found ourselves with an unmet need, including shuttle trips to town and yoga classes.

The food was not a great fit for our family, but that is not unexpected when traveling. For example, we learned that cold milk is important to our otherwise flexible four-year-old. She doesn’t care what sort (cow’s, almond, even soy), but having it warm was a huge turn off to her. We quickly came up with a plan B to make sure everyone’s needs were met. After the first day, we had breakfast at the lodge (cereals, breads, and other simple things) and brought back takeout to our kitchen for lunch and dinner.

Throughout our stay, there was a calm, laid back atmosphere. We were actually the only guests staying at the resort during the time we were there, so as we explored, that had positive and negative points. (It would have been a great place for the kids to run around with a new friend or two!) The grounds are large and include several hiking trails, plus a waterfall the boys found themselves spending an afternoon enjoying.

There is a wide variety of accommodation available, including bungalows and cabins – something for any size party. Plus be sure to visit the meditation hall and take in a yoga class, offered each morning and evening. Stephanie is amazing. Spa options are offered near the main lodge.

The history of this place is a great draw, as well.  A group of like-minded individuals got together in 1994 and decided to create a space to enjoy together. They got started in 1994, using an ox to carry the first timbers for building the first structure. The rest was built with wood from local reforestation and trees fallen on the property (green wood). Samasati Nature Retreat is part of the Sustainable Tourism Board and follows strict eco-friendly guidelines. We love staying in a place you can feel good about!

We found Samasati to be a great home base for our adventures, though the kids were ready for a little more action when we left. And that’s just what they got, as our next stop was the Arenal region.

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Costa Rica: Six Easy Steps to Arrival

Arrival in a new country can be a crazy moment with a family in tow. Here is what the process will look like when you arrive in Costa Rica…

Paperwork

There is no need to apply for a Visa ahead of time when heading to Costa Rica (from the U.S.). Some simple paperwork is all that is required, and the flight attendant will pass the forms out on the plane. Have handy a pen and the address where you will be staying in Costa Rica (if you will be staying multiple places, the first works), along with everyone’s passports. Be ready for a little bit of writer’s cramp – you will be asked to complete ONE Customs form per family, and ONE Immigration form per person.

Passports

When traveling with a family, place the immigration forms on the photo page of each passport to save time in the immigration line.

Lines

There are two lines to immigration, one for citizens and one for visitors. They move fairly quickly, so be ready. When we reached the front of the line, we were asked if we spoke Spanish (un poquito), then had to answer a couple of questions about where we would be staying and how long we would be in the country. Officers often will ask children a simple question to verify identity – like their middle names – so you may want to prepare them for that.

Baggage

The next step is to pick up your bags (there are carts and skycaps available, if you choose), and head through customs. Our customs forms were collected, and we were asked to put all of our bags on a conveyor for xray check. This is a definite chance for chaos to set in, as things are happening FAST. Don’t let it get to you – take your time, and respect the pace of each member of your family.


Assistance

As in other Latin American countries we have visited, there are people everywhere ready to help. We found it was worth grabbing a skycap (not as official as you may be used to – use your best judgment) for the help, as we had our hands full keeping the family all together in the crowd. We gave him $2, and not only did he help us get to the right place for our hotel shuttle, he helped us with our bags and even flagged the shuttle down for us.

Have a Plan

We suggest having your transportation arranged in advance, as everyone will be worn from travel when you arrive. There are many options available – hotel shuttle, taxi, private transfer – you don’t want to be figuring it out on the fly if you can help it.

TIP: Booths inside the airport (before and after customs) offer local money exchange. There is no commission on Visa/Mastercard draws. See our post on $$$ for information on our recommendations for money to have on hand.

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Costa Rica: One Size Fits All – Our Costa Rican Itinerary

With two adults, two teenagers, and a pre-schooler along for the ride, it is no small feat to find an itinerary to fit everyone’s needs. Two weeks in Costa Rica took that challenge and went above and beyond.

When you have your 16-year-old talking about how great his trip was while your 4-year-old goes on and on about all the amazing things she saw – game over. You win!

Below is the itinerary we laid out with our fantastic agent, Christian, at Costa Rica Online Travel. (Learn more about our experience using an agent for the first time here.) This vacation not only gave us an opportunity to explore a new country together, it was filled with learning opportunities and excitement, too.

I think every member of our family had the chance to be challenged on this trip. We each stepped out of our comfort zones and did something we never thought we could. And wow! What a result!

May 31: San Jose – Hotel
Transfer via hotel shuttle
Arrive and check into two Standard Rooms at the Holiday Inn Express Hotel

June 01: San Jose – Puerto Viejo/Cahuita
Pick up at 9:30 AM
Private transfer to Puerto Viejo/Cahuita
Arrive and check into a Villa at Samasati Nature Retreat

June 02: Puerto Viejo/Cahuita
Day at your leisure
Overnight in a Villa at Samasati Nature Retreat

June 03: Cahuita Snorkeling & Rainforest Hike
Pick up at 8:10 AM
Includes: Transportation, naturalist guide, gear, all entrance fees, fruits, snacks and bottled water.
Overnight in a Villa at Samasati Nature Retreat

June 04: Puerto Viejo/Cahuita
Day at your leisure
Overnight in a Villa at Samasati Nature Retreat

June 05: Puerto Viejo/Cahuita – Arenal
Pick up at 9:00 AM
Private transfer to Arenal
Arrive and check into a Superior Room at Los Lagos Hotel Spa & Resort.

June 06: Canopy & Tarzan Swing Tour
Pick up at 9:45 AM
Includes: transportation, safety equipment, professional bilingual guides, water.
Overnight in a Superior Room at Los Lagos Hotel Spa & Resort

June 07: Arenal Hanging Bridges Hike
Pick up at 8:00 AM
Includes: transportation, bilingual naturalist guide, beverages and entrance fee.
Overnight in a Superior Room at Los Lagos Hotel Spa & Resort

June 08: Horseback Riding to La Fortuna Waterfall
Pick up at 7:50 AM
Includes: round trip transportation, local guide, entrance

June 09: Arenal – Papagayo
Pick up at 10:00 AM
Private transfer to Papagayo
Arrive and check into two Standard Rooms at RIU Guanacaste Hotel

June 10: Corobici River Safari Float Tour
Pick up at 7:30 AM
Includes: transportation, bilingual guides, lunch and equipment.
Overnight in two Standard Rooms at RIU Guanacaste Hotel

June 11: Papagayo
Day at your leisure to enjoy the all-inclusive hotel services
Overnight in two Standard Rooms at RIU Guanacaste Hotel

June 12: Papagayo – San Jose
Morning free to enjoy the all-inclusive hotel services
Pick up at 1:00 PM
Private transfer to San Jose Hotel
Arrive and check into two Standard Rooms at the Holiday Inn Express Hotel

June 13: San Jose Hotel – International Airport
Return home

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