Jamaica: Deep Sea Fishing

Guest Post by Justin Parkinson

On Friday, our last full day on our Jamaican adventure, after a morning at the Blue Hole, we set out onto the Caribbean Sea on a deep sea fishing trip. We booked a four hour adventure with Ocho Rios Deep Sea Fishing.

Personally, I could gladly have cut it from the itinerary, not being even vaguely interested in fishing. But I'm glad I didn't. The trip was my father-in-law’s birthday present, on his request, and I was on the boat with him, my brother and my stepson. There’s plenty of joy to be had in participating in someone else’s fun, and no better people to spend an afternoon with than family no matter what you are doing. Then, on a personal level, two very special things happened out there.

The second was that standing on the deck of our small fishing boat, the Justeina, rolling with the ocean swells, the wind whipping my hair, the salt spray drying tight across my face as the Caribbean paradise faded into the haze on the horizon, I found a deep happiness in my reconnection with the ocean. I grinned like a fool until my face ached. Then I grinned some more because when I tried to relax my smile, it just crept back again.

The first, and most wonderful experience of the entire vacation, was when my kid - my moody uncommunicative seventeen-year-old stepson - turned to me with dancing eyes and true gratitude in his voice and said, "This has been the best vacation ever, thank you." And then he hugged me! I'd like to tell you I have stepkids who adore me and show their affection often, but I don't. This was a rare, in fact unique, moment that I may just treasure forever. I felt like a king.

It wasn't just the excitement of deep sea fishing, though visions of 500-pound tuna were definitely racing in his head. It was also the exhilaration of the Blue Hole, and the prospect of a farewell bonfire that evening. But more than that, this vacation with both sets of grandparents, an uncle, and the four kids all together, was special. Jamaica was special.

From a travel perspective we had a rough day with the hook. Granddad managed to pull in a three-foot barracuda, but that was our only strike. Lucky Randy, our guide, kept busy with the lures and bait trying his hardest to entice a fish, to no avail. We got to the end of our four hour excursion, and were almost inside the harbour when Captain Speedy spotted some birds and took us back out on hopes there would be some hunters under the water where the birds were fishing. We got to see many flying fish skipping and skittering across the waves, but no strike. You can't hold the lack of fish a against the crew, but I probably wouldn't be jumping up and down suggesting you seek them out, either.

The crew came with a cooler well stocked with beer and water, though if you're seasoned drinker, you may want to bring extra. There was not enough there for us to get drunk on, even if we'd thought that was a wise idea on the rolling sea.

Oh, and here's a tip learned the hard way - make sure to get sunblock everywhere. You know, including the part of my knee that is hidden under your shorts when standing, but exposed when sitting! Ouch!

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Jamaica: The Beautiful Coral Cove Villa

Morning coffee and conversation on the patio, the steady rake, rake, rake sound of the gardener going about his daily routine, the breeze gently rustling through the trees. Ocean waves roll into the channel, lapping at the white sand beach. A symphony of birds sings along in harmony with the gardener's rhythm. The more you listen, the more you hear.

Nestled along the edge of Jamaica's beautiful Discovery Bay, Coral Cove Villa is a beautiful, relaxing haven with plenty of space to spread out and make yourself at home. Indoor living spaces flow into outdoor spaces, blurring the line masterfully.

The fence line on either side of the property is a botanical garden featuring fruit, flower, leaf, and tree. If you are very still, you may see a land crab digging in the cool dirt or a cat walking along the garden wall. The morning air is cool, but hints at the heat of the day to come. It is the perfect place for nature exploration, and we each take turns on a journey of discovery with our five-year-old adventurer.

Coral Cove was the site of a sort of epic family trip - eleven family members from three generations coming from New Zealand, North Dakota and Montana - and we couldn't think of a more perfect spot for it. We all settled easily into lounging, the largest moves being from the patio to the pool to the hammock to the beach. No stress or alarm clocks here.

As the locals say, "No worries, mon."

The view from our upstairs suite was amazing, evoking feelings of absolute paradise.

But the real draw here, the thing that sets this place apart, is the staff. The delightful and attentive staff works a constant cycle to keep the villa looking pristine and to anticipate our every need, leaving us to just shut off and recharge. I don't know how we could possibly say enough about the staff, they are absolutely amazing.

Kevin, Norma, Penny, Louise, Devon, and Paul could not have made Jamaica more fantastic for us.

We wake each morning to the smell of bacon cooking. In the afternoon, icy cocktails are by the pool. Each evening during dinner, our beds are turned down, the shutters are closed tight, and the air conditioning and fans are turned on so we can retire to a cool place. Touches like a bottle of water on each night stand are welcoming and sweet.

The housekeepers kept up with laundry from 11 people as though it were nothing (including all of our laundry from the week of vacation leading up to our arrival at the villa), leaving it freshly folded outside our rooms each afternoon. 

And the food. Oh, the food! Miss Norma is clearly the matriarch of a large Jamaican family, with years of experience putting out food for a crowd. She worked wonders with all of our food requests (most importantly - feed us local food!), and stretched a dollar like any good grandmother would.

In addition to the absolutely mandatory relaxation, the villa was an amazing place to cultivate family relationships.

We also loved the pool and proximity to the beach. The children spend hours swimming and splashing, the older ones enjoying a paddle around the cove in a kayak when the winds are calm, or swimming out to the swim dock to dive to their heart's content.

An entire undersea world is also ready to explore - simply don a snorkel and mask and set off on an adventure. Caribbean rays, a variety of tropical fish, white and black urchin, and much more revealed themselves under the crystal blue waters.

Discovery Bay is on the north side of Jamaica, between Montego Bay and Ocho Rios. The Coral Cove property actually offers two houses - we stayed in the larger of the two, a five bedroom, five bathroom home. The second house offers an additional three bedrooms and can be rented together or separately. Each house has a pool and private beach.

The villa was a great fit for all ages. They catered exceedingly well to the youngest member of our party, with her own special play table, and plastic plates and cups at her place each meal, but it was also an excellent fit for the teenagers and the grandparents. Not every place can say that!

There is much to explore outside the gates, too, so lazy mornings roll into exciting days, filled with waterfalls, shopping, deep sea fishing, and tours. We were careful not to fill too much of our time, instead reserving exploration of Jamaica to every other day to optimize our time at the villa.

The last night of our stay, we had an amazing steak and lobster dinner.

Then Devon treated us to a bonfire on the beach, complete with marshmallows to roast and Jamaican music over the sound system. It was the perfect way to celebrate our last night.

Watch the blog all this week for more about our once-in-a-lifetime visit to this beautiful Caribbean nation!

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Bahamas: Pirate of Nassau Museum

When Bria (five) heard the taxi driver utter the words "pirate museum" on the drive from the Nassau airport, she was sold. A block up from the Straw Market at King and George Streets in Nassau, the museum is a fun interactive stop for young and old.

We were greeted outside the museum by a playful pirate, and directed to the gift shop, where we began our journey.

Once we had paid the admission fee ($13 for adults, and for kids 4-17, $6.50), the pirate led us along a corridor to the entrance to the museum, setting the stage as he walked. The year is 1716. We step onto a moonlit dock, surrounded by the sounds of lapping water and pirates celebrating their successes in a tavern. Beside us is a replica of the ship "Revenge," the scene of our exploration of the lives of bloodthirsty Caribbean pirates.

The Pirates of Nassau Museum is small, but filled with interesting stories of how pirates lived and died, keeping all of us engaged from beginning to end. A couple of parts were a little bit scary, but we breezed over those without it causing any issues.

One of our favorite parts was the story of two woman pirates, Anne Bonny and Mary Read. These tough women have an incredibly interesting story, made even more mystical by the abrubt end to the story of Bonny, and the abundant theories on what may have happened to her after she escaped execution by turning up pregnant.

At the end of the tour, there is a small collection of artifacts, along with a few items from modern popular culture to browse before stepping out into the bar and gift shop. Snacks and drinks are available, and reasonably priced.

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Bahamas: Visiting the Atlantis Resort

Thinking of heading to the Atlantis resort on Paradise Island in the Bahamas? Check out this insider information before you pack your bags.

Getting There

Flights into Nassau are available from several airlines. We found great deals with Jet Blue. Connecting out of Fort Lauderdale or Miami will mean a 35-45 minute easy hop onto the island. The airport is small and easy to navigate, with plenty of transportation available outside.

As with so many places, taxi rates from the Nassau airport are set by the government. Be sure you know them before you get into a taxi. When we went, it was $33 for the first four people, and $4 per person after four, and took about about 30 minutes, depending on traffic. If you are traveling somewhere on the island without a posted rate, speak with the driver to agree upon a price before getting in the cab.

It isn’t a great option when you arrive and have bags in tow, but to go into Nassau from the resort, you can take a land or water taxi for about $4 per person plus tip. We took the water taxi one day and wrote about it here.

Getting Around

This place is massive, there are no two ways about it. You're sure to blow up those pedometers! Bring your walking shoes and band-aids for blisters. There is a shuttle that takes you between towers every thirty minutes, but we never found it worth the wait, and ended up just hiking everywhere we went. Strollers are available to rent through a third party, ask about them at Guest Services. We got one for the day we went into Nassau for the food tour (amazing, by the way, we highly recommend it), and paid $16, which included having it dropped off and picked up in our room. Easy peasy.

Check In

Check in time for the rooms is 3 p.m., but if your flight gets in early, you can head to the resort early and do a partial check in, which allows you access to the facilities before your room is ready. We arrived in Nassau at 9 a.m., left our bags with the bellman, and set off exploring.

One things we really wished someone had told us at the time was that Atlantis offers complimentary use of their In-Transit Hospitality Lounges, located in each of the towers. The lounges offer lockers, showers, restrooms, changing facilities, and bathing suit dryers. Be sure to ask about this feature if you check in early or won't be leaving at the 11 a.m. check out time.

The Towers

I read a review of the Royal Towers that said, “If you heed the warnings about the impending chaos that awaits you, Atlantis will not disappoint you.” I couldn’t have said it better! This place is loud and bustling and high-energy. But it is also classy and opulent and a sight to behold. We’ve been twice (on business), and stayed in the Royal Tower both times.

Atlantis is a busy resort - especially the Royal Towers end. There is lots happening, including the aquarium, waterpark, and casino, and people congregate here in large numbers. If you are looking for quiet rest and relaxation, you may be disappointed. But if the hustle and bustle of lots to do and see is your thing, you’ll feel right at home.

With that said, here is the view from our room...

...not much to find fault with there!

We have never stayed at the Beach or Coral towers, but every time we have visited them, they seemed quieter and less chaotic, despite the fact that most of the children’s activities (aside from the waterpark) are located on that end. Most of the promotions offered on the Atlantis website are for the Beach tower, so you can get a good deal by going with a slightly smaller and less fancy room.

There is also an adults-only tower called the Cove, but I’m not really sure I would choose a waterpark for a romantic getaway! The Reef Tower is a timeshare option.

Eating

The food at Atlantis is expensive. And not in the “oh that’s kind of spendy” sense, but more in the “that was physically painful, can you check me for blood?” sense. Prepare yourself ahead of time and surrender to it, or you’re going to have a very depressing holiday.

We budgeted $120 per person, per day for food, and managed to stay under, but it wasn’t always easy. We did need to remind ourselves of the budget a few times, especially when we were signing $500 dinner bills!

The resort does offer a wide selection of restaurants, with everything from local fare to upscale sushi and Mediterranean. Bobby Flay even has a restaurant here, for the Food Network lovers.

The meal plans are an option, I suppose for those who like to have their pain upfront, but read the fine print. You will still pay a 15% gratuity on the menu price of anything you order, and lunch is not covered in the plan. A few more details - everyone on your reservation must eat together at every meal. They also aren’t available for a partial stay, so if you plan to eat off site at all (like we enjoy doing at least once), the plan may not make sense for you. Children 6 and under do eat free with an adult dining plan, so that’s a benefit.

There are three plans available (depending which tower you are staying in and which range of restaurants you prefer), and they must be purchased before arrival.

We have never used the dining plan, partly because the event we traveled with has some dinners included, because we like to venture off into town and eat with the locals, and because we enjoy the flexibility of doing our own thing. We have tossed it up, though, so I’m not discouraging travelers from it based on our situation.

Aquaventure

The big draw! Our crew loved the waterpark, Aquaventure. The attractions are included in your stay at the resort, and day passes can be purchased for those arriving by cruise ship or staying in other hotels.

Aquaventure offers a good selection of attractions for all ages, with everything from the splash pool for tiny littles to the Leap of Faith, which drops riders 60 feet from a Mayan temple into a shark tank. The flagship of the park, the Leap of Faith has been called the Scariest Water Slide in the World by Odd Stuff Magazine and one of the Top 10 Craziest Water Slides in the World by Travel + Leisure. It is definitely one for the thrill seekers to cross of their lists!

There are more than 18 slides in the 141 acre park. It isn’t all about bigger means better, though. One of our favorites is the Current, a one mile long river ride, complete with rolling rapids and surging waves. Our five-year-old had a great time riding along on this one, but for the less adventurous, there is also a lazy river ride near the Beach tower. There are 11 unique swimming pools, too!

One thing to note - most of the main slides require riders to be 48 inches tall. While there are many children's slides and pools, this did lead to some disappointment from one member of our group.

Beach

With all that water park, it is easy to forget that this is, of course, the Bahamas, and there are gorgeous beaches just steps away! The Atlantis property includes private and public beaches, with crystal clear water and absolutely amazing sand. Unless you are staying in the Beach tower, it may take a little effort to get to the beach (I have to admit, the first time we visited, we didn't make it to the on-property beaches at all), but it is well worth it!

Marine Habitat

Atlantis is home to more than 250 species of aquatic life, making it the largest such exhibit in the Caribbean and one of the largest in the world. Check out the Dig, the lost continent-themed aquarium beneath the Atlantis tower, and then venture out to the lagoons throughout the property to see the fish and animals up close and personal. It is a pretty amazing place for the budding marine biologist in the family.

Programs are available for all ages to interact with the sea life, as well. Bria participated in the Sea Squirts program and we definitely found it to be high value to her. Check at the Guest Services desk for information on programs available during your stay.

Night Life

Once the water slides are all closed for the evening, Atlantis really comes alive. We aren’t really casino people, but Atlantis does offer a large, popular one. It is flanked by two bars with very different atmospheres. The Moon Club offers designer cocktails in a relaxed, classy atmosphere, complete with a wall featuring a tank of live jellyfish. On the opposite side of the casino is Dragon’s Ultra Lounge, a nightclub with a dance floor and VIP seating for people watching. Weekend nights, those looking to dance the night away can head over to the Aura Nightclub, a 9,000-square-foot nightclub designed by Jeffrey Beers.

There is also live entertainment, including shows in the theater (check out the schedule before you come) and the Joker’s Wild Comedy Club, which we have enjoyed on both of our visits. For $25 (cash or credit card, no room charge), you’re sure to get a laugh and enjoy a few hours of adult time.

For the younger set, there are teen and pre-teen night clubs available, too. Crush is a parent-free space by night, with family tours available each afternoon for the curious. More than 14,000 square feet, the club includes an internet lounge, gaming room, and of course a dance floor with a live DJ. The concession stand and bar serve up non-alcoholic drinks and snacks.

Our teenagers had mixed reviews of the club, but that is largely because they are on the older end of the target market. I imagine younger teens would be more interested in what Crush has to offer.

Other Things to Do

There is definitely no shortage of things to do at the resort. There is rock climbing, tennis courts, a fitness center, the spa, shopping, pottery studio, and a Build-A-Bear workshop. Atlantis Theater, located in the convention center, offers complimentary movies several times a day. If you need some quiet time, the library offers books, computers, and a children’s corner.

Just outside the Dig, there is a Cartoon Network obstacle course set up in the water. The course is free of charge, but slots fill early, so check out our blog post about the fun, then head down to Guest Services to book your go.

Grab the daily newsletter, the Atlantean, near the elevators each day for a complete schedule of activities on the property.

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Bahamas: The Caves at Cable Beach

The Caves at Nassau are located west of Cable Beach. Not a lot to see here, mostly just a quick stop to snap a photo or two.

Got five minutes? Come check out this little spot along the side of the road.Although not historically proven, local lore says the Lucayan Indians were the original inhabitants of the islands and resided in these caves, carved by the ocean many years ago.

In more recent years, they say Pirates and their bounty found refuge from the law by hiding in these caves. Kids love a good pirate story, right? The current inhabitants are a little more natural - the 'Buffy Flower Bat' (Brophylia Sezekomi) commonly known as the fruit bat, and indigenous to the Bahama Islands, calls these caves home.

Stepping inside the lower of this pair of caves, we saw dozens of these creatures sleeping in the heat of the day.

This is not a stellar place for children. Broken glass littered the floor and the girls weren't exactly excited abut the bats, either. But it's kind of cool to check it off the list and say "been there, done that."

Nassau Vacations

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Bahamas: Tips for Atlantis with Kids

Here is the latest in our continuing series on visiting the Bahamas! Enjoy these travel tips for hitting the island with your children.

Taxi and Shuttle Drivers

We found that getting a taxi was cheaper than a shuttle to Atlantis. You may want to check into this for yourself, it will depend on where you are staying and how many are in your party. Either way, use that driver as a resource! They are more than happy to talk your ear off about the island, pointing out the hot spots and offering travel tips. On the way in, our driver offered to stop at the grocery store so we could pick up snacks for the kids. We definitely should have taken him up on it! See second tip below.

Grocery Store

After paying some seriously inflated prices for kid food and drinks the first day, we took a taxi to a grocery store and picked up a few essentials. We paid $1 for one liter bottles of water that were $10 poolside, and less than $10 for cereal (the kind that comes in its own disposable bowl) and a container of shelf-stable milk. We also grabbed a few snack foods for the children and some juice boxes for those in-between times.

Food Plan

If you plan to eat at the resort, the food plans really are a good idea. You’re on vacation, you don’t want to be stressing about prices! (And the prices are something else…) Food plans allow you to take care of the expense in advance. Word of caution, though -- the plans do not include drinks or gratuity.

Stay On Resort

Honestly, there’s not much to see in Nassau -– if you want to do a quick tour, do it on the way to or from the airport. A few hours to check out the sights will be plenty. Plus we found that we didn't really save much (if any) money by going off-site to eat. You're better off purchasing the food plan and enjoying all the resort has to offer, instead.

Sun Screen

Don't forget to apply and re-apply. And don't just concentrate on the kids -- mom and dad need protection in those intense rays, too!

Island Time

Be sure to check the hours on activities you want to check out. Things (like the water park) close earlier than you may think. It seemed a bit counter-intuitive to us to not really be able to avoid the heat of the day by going in the evening, but most outdoor activities were closed by 7.

Plan Down Time

The Atlantis resort has a LOT to offer for family members of all ages, and it is easy to get carried away and want to be everywhere, doing everything. Be sure to schedule down time into your day, especially if you are traveling with small children.

Adult Time

While you're at it, consider taking advantage of that awesome childcare and having some grownup time on the island! There's a casino, night club, and lots of other adults only spots to check out.

Pack Light

The resort provides life jackets for the little ones and towels at the pool - no need to tote them along!

Sun Screen

Did I mention to reapply that sun screen? Seriously, I meant it!

More on Taxi Drivers

Nassau is a small place with an extremely high unemployment rate, and people are definitely working to take care of each other. You can't really blame them, right? But be aware -- you are likely to pay a little more if you see the island with a driver rather than on your own. We were happy to do it that way, but it's nice to be aware in advance! (Example -- seeing Fort Charlotte is free, but our taxi driver walked us up to the gates and set us up with a tour, which cost us $5 an adult. He also brought us to specific restaurants and street vendors.)

What are your best tips for traveling to Atlantis with children? We'd love to hear. Please share them in the comments.

Family Vacation
Paradise Island

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Bahamas: Junkanoo Music and Dancing

Junkanoo is the colorful, exuberant festival held at Boxing Day and New Years each year. Featuring bright, colorful costumes (especially elaborate headdresses of jewels, feathers, and much more) and rhythmic, enchanting music.

From the first moment she stepped off the plane and heard drums, our three-year-old daughter developed her island dance. She was all about enjoying the buskers drumming along the marina, then the sound of music seemed to follow us everywhere throughout the week. She heard it in taxi cabs, stores, restaurants, even poolside, where a DJ with a laptop and a pair of turntables mixed a variety of upbeat jams.

Twice we experienced a special treat -- junkanoo parades or "rush outs". Sort of a cross between something traditionally African and a marching band, junkanoo is very energetic, with dancers moving to the sound of goatskin drums, cowbells, whistles, and horns.

The first time we saw the group near the pool, weaving their way through crowds of bikini-clad travelers. The second time was far more spectacular, as the entertainment for the farewell party for the N21 event that brought us to the Bahamas.

Photos simply do not do the experience justice. The dinner was on a large area beside a the glistening, still Royal Baths Pool near the Royal Towers. We were just wrapping up a dinner of Bahamian delicacies and yummy desserts when suddenly across the pool appeared a row of musicians and dancers clad in bright purples, shimmering golds. They announced their arrival with a blast of horns, then sprang into music that brought everyone to their feet.



The parade made its way around the pool and through the crowd, dancing to the front of the group and entertaining us with a few pieces. Bria rocked out the entire time, and the lead dancer (shown in purple) got really into dancing with her. It was great! Then she started a conga line, and Bria got right into the action. What a fun way to wrap up our experience at the resort!

TIP: Junkanoo brings a great taste of local culture to the resort atmosphere, which we really enjoyed. If you're visiting Atlantis, be sure to ask about the Junkanoo Rush Out which is held at the Marina twice a week.

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Goddess Ixchel Temple -- Mexico

Temple ruins

At the southeastern-most tip of Isla Mujeres there is one stood a Mayan Temple to the Goddess Ixchel - goddess of midwifery and medicine in the Maya culture and the guardian of childbirth. What is left now is little more than a pile of crumbling rocks (severely damaged by a hurricane in 1988), but the fantastic feminine energy of the spot remains.

My visit to the island would not have been complete without a trip to this spot. As a mother and a birth doula, this was a profound journey for me. 

Ixchel's temple is located at the very eastern-most point in Mexico, surrounded by rarely touched white sand beaches and the clearest water I have ever seen.

At the head of the trail to the temple is a tiny one room museum with historical information about the goddess and the site, along with a small gift shop, restaurant, and some merchants nestled into a small space near a magnificent statue of Ixchel.

The trek is well worth the energy!

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